A report on the 2021 vintage in Burgundy and its position in the world market (2023)

The most famous vineyards and producers in Burgundy, such as those in the Côte d'Or, never have a problem selling every bottle they can produce, but the rest of Burgundy - which has a selection from Chablis to Beaujolais - has to compete with a ever-growing selection of wines on the global market. To find out more about the 2021 vintage and how things are in general in the Burgundy region, I spoke with Frédèric Drouhin, president of the Bourgogne Wine Board (lobe, below).

Can you give me a general overview of the 2021 vintage?

The harvest started mainly in Burgundy between September 18 and 20, after a difficult year marked by bad weather. Crémant de Bourgogne (sparkling wines) started earlier. The first grapes were picked on September 8, but most producers started on the 10th. The Pinot Noir was ready earlier than the Chardonnay, which is unusual. Chardonnay was late after the April frost. It took several weeks for the vines to resume their growth cycle.

Sorting was sometimes necessary and since almost all sectors and traders are very well equipped, this was not a problem. Fermentations started very quickly, for both whites and reds, which proves that the yeast population was quite active. The destruction started today and the first tastes are positive.

Was it a difficult year in other parts of France's vineyards?

That. Almost all wine regions in France suffered from the April frost. Some areas also suffered from rainfall that sometimes caused mildew, mold or hail. The French government has said that the total amount of wine in France could be reduced by 28 to 32% by 2021, but we don't know how much will be lost. We will get the first idea in November. We are now conducting a field study collecting the results of at least 400 manufacturers. On November 21, at the press conference for the Hospices de Beaune wine auction, we will be able to give a first estimate of our quantities. Final data will be available in February 2022.

With global warming in the vineyards, is there any effect on this year's harvest?

This year, if we ignore the effects of the frost, not really (we had the coldest July in 50 years!). Frost in April is quite common in Burgundy. The problem mainly comes from mild winters. Since 1987, we have seen an increase in average temperatures of 1°C. Various studies indicate that the vine growth cycle occurred earlier than 1988. Flowering occurred an average of two weeks earlier than that date, compared to 1961-1987. This explains why frost in April is now a danger to be aware of. On the other hand, this progress helps us to mature well every year.

Was there a lack of sun and heat for sugar to accumulate?

In fact, average monthly temperatures and average monthly sunshine were below normal, at least from early July to mid-August. After that, the last 2 weeks of August and the first 2 weeks of September were sunny, which helped to complete the ripening. This explains why we are returning to the traditional 100 day delay between flowering and harvest (last year we had more than 90-92 days). We reach a normal level of sugar and acidity (lower than in recent years), which can appear from a typical Burgundian vintage, with a nice freshness.

Are rising alcohol levels in Burgundy a problem in the future?

So far, the rising temperature has been a bonus for Burgundy wines. Burgundy has a cool climate and we traditionally harvest in October with a low sugar content (then capitalization was the annual norm). Regardless of variety, global warming has improved the balance in terms of potential alcohol, acidity, and so on. The two main varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, are now found in much warmer wine-growing regions than ours, and the Bourgogne Wine Commission is currently studying the behavior of these varieties in other warmer regions. Our goal is to determine how well these varieties can adapt to climate change and thus predict what adaptations might occur. With the 2021 vintage, we return to the classic style with a nice expression of fruitiness, balance, freshness and a lower alcohol level.

Can you tell me what the Cave de Prestige des Vins de Bourgogne will achieve?

The Cave de Prestige selection is now a tool and a true showcase for Burgundy wines. First, the selection process is very strict: only 12.85% of samples (203 out of 1580) were selected this year. This rigor is necessary. We (Burgundy Wine Board) will use them for all training, advertising and marketing activities over the next 12 months. These wines will remind people that Burgundy has a truly comprehensive offering that goes far beyond a few legendary names. They must represent all the excellence of Burgundy wines, regardless of the AOC level.

Fête des Vins de Chablis 2021 is coming soon. Can you tell me something about the event?

Since its first edition in 1949, the Fête des Vins de Chablis continues to evolve, but its success is always based on one idea: friendliness! On October 23 and 24 the city center will host again-ua wide selection of compositions with the vines of Chablis and the wider Grand Auxerrois region. The festival is organized by the Office du Chablis in collaboration with the Bourgogne Wine Board.

We expect 4000 to 5000 visitors. Each of them can buy a special glass (€6): after that, all wine tastings are free. Saturday is the Marathon de Chablis. on Sunday morning there is a walk in the vineyards with departures every 15 minutes. If you want, there will be a Bourguignon market in all the streets with local products. About forty producers will present their wines. The list will be available in mid-October.

Everyone must show a 'health card' proving vaccination or covid-free status. Then you can enter without a mask.

Can you tell me more about the progress in the wine city of Burgundy and the climate (these)?

2021 marked the official opening of three workplaces in Mâcon, Beaune and Chablis. The content will be gradually expanded with start dates set for 2022 and 2023. Another important point in 2021 is the final definition of the name and image: it will be known worldwide as Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne. The concept of "climate" now comes first, to remind the world that Burgundy is the place where the concept of terroir is pushed to the limit. All three sites of the Cité des vins et des Climats de Bourgogne network have their own dimensions and timetables and work will start at different times in 2021. It was preceded by the symbolic laying of the first stone in the presence of public partners. In terms of content, business has accelerated as the definition of content and services offered at each location expands, from visitor trails to wine-themed activities, one-off events, shops, wine-themed tips and advice, private hire, discovery bar, workshops, tasting classes and education fromTheBurgundy wine schools.

How is the world market for premium crus like PRC?

Grands Crus represent less than 2% of the total production of Burgundy. They represent the best that Les Climats has to offer. Recent vintages have been very good indeed, offering wines that can be drunk early but also have great aging potential. The demand for these Grand Crus increases every year and even if the production does not match the demand, many retailers and domaines try to spread the Grands Crus to as many markets and customers as possible.

Generally speaking, Burgundy wines are doing very well this year. In the first seven months of 2021, exports increased by 24.8% (number of bottles) and 34.3% (turnover). The numbers are even better than 2019, which was a great year.

2020 was also a good year despite the pandemic. The volume of exported Burgundy wines maintained growth in 2020, close to the equivalent of 90 million 75cl bottles (down 0.3% compared to 2019). Export revenue remained above one billion euros, despite a slight decrease of 0.7% compared to 2019. Nevertheless, in 2021 all AOC groups are recording good results. When it comes to the top Premier and Grand Cru AOCs, the numbers are pretty good:

•White Grand Cru in Côte de Beaune/Côte de Nuits AOC: 203.6% increase in volume and 21.5% increase in value

•Chablis Premier and Grand Cru AOC: 76% increase in volume and 47% increase in value

• Red Grand Cru AOCs in Côte de Nuits/Côte de Beaune: 38% increase in quantity and 28% increase in value